Friday 27 August - Preparations and Departure:  We (Phil, Nancy, Cathy, and John) had our bikes packed by the local bike shop in bicycle boxes and all of our gear was packed in panniers, which we would carry onboard.  The Air France international flights do not charge extra for bicycles.  Our limo van transported us to Newark airport where we met Christian and Al.  We checked in together and our plane departed at 8 pm and we arrived at 3 pm in Biarritz, 3 hours late.   The six hour flight from Newark to Paris was lengthened by a holding pattern for Paris due to fog.  Our connecting flight was also late so we were very late getting to our final destination, Biarritz.  Our bikes were checked through to Biarritz and were at the baggage claim shortly after we arrived.  The total travel time from Newark was about 12 hours with a three hour layover in Paris.

We assembled our bicycles and were ready to ride shortly after 5 p.m.  Our first ride was short but it went through town.  The roads were narrow and the traffic was moderately heavy.  Most motorists were courteous.  It was fun and only a few miles.  The weather was comfortably warm and the skies were overcast.  The sun peeped out from time to time.  We rode past our hotel and later got directions.  We found the Hotel Tonic in the center of town and we locked our bikes in the basement garage.  The hotel rooms are v ac aery small by our standards but clean and comfortable.  We later discovered that most of the hotel rooms are very small as this is customary in Europe.  There is a nice restaurant at the hotel were we enjoyed dinner at the outdoor café at about 7:30 p.m.  It stays light until after 9 p.m.  The hustle and bustle of the town goes on around us while we enjoy a uniquely French and very quaint dinner.  The food was excellent.  We found that most menus offered duck, beef, and fish - all of which is very good.  Duck was a predominant entree as it seemed to be served at almost all the restaurants.   The fish soup was excellent.

After dinner, Christian, Al, and I went for a walk.  The beach was nearby and a promenade went along the beach and rocky shore to a point.  We saw a human "ghost" statue who moved after standing motionless for a long time.  Human statues are popular in touristy areas and it attracted quite a crowd.  The town is beyond awesome.  We went to bed slightly before 11 p.m.

Sunday 29 August - Day 1: We met in the Hotel Tonic lobby for breakfast with the jet-lag blues.  Christian was blurry-eyed in the morning and was served beer due to a challenge with the French word demi, as in demi-pension, or perhaps demi as in a pint of beer.  Sadly, the beer was returned and we all settled on a more normal French breakfast.  After breakfast we found a shop with some maps for Phil and Nancy.  By noon we were on our bikes riding south along the coast.  It was great fun.  By 2:30 we were at Saint Jean du Luz and found an outdoor café for lunch.  It was a light meal of tomato salad, bread, and bottled water.  The ride along the coast was romantic, picturesque, and just beautiful.  The beaches are long and wide, full of people.  It is a popular place for surfing.  The town of St. Jean du Luz has a section that reminded me of Old Town in Athens, Greece with narrow, brick sidewalks (no roads) lined with small shops and busy with people walking, shopping, and people watching.  There are many bakeries and patisseries in town.  It is a summer resort beach town.  We were back on the road by 3:30.  After we passed through town, we crossed a river and headed southeast away from the coast.  Nancy was riding on the side of the road and hit a curb that protruded.  She flipped over her bike and wiped out.  Although she was on her bike again in no time, I was sure that such a wipeout would have injured a normal person.  She has two more miracles before winning the title of superwoman.  Our ride continued through the country towards the mountains.  The roads were narrow and traffic was light.  Trees lined the roads in some areas and provided shade.  Other areas were exposed to the bright sunshine.  Up a mountain we rode for perhaps a half hour.  We may have averaged 4.5 mph in low gear.  Hot and sweaty but feeling good.  A beautiful valley to our right with trees and farms.  At the top was an area full of tourists and a rail and locomotive to take people up the mountain, 3,000 feet above the Atlantic Ocean.  Next, an awesome downhill followed by some more narrow roads and some rolling hills.  Picturesque mountains, woodlands, farms, and small villages.  The buildings are mostly white with red roofs, typical of the French Basque region.  A couple turns and we found hour hotel in Ainhoã, named Ithuria, built in 1656.  It was charming and intriguing.  Comfortable but small bedrooms and nicely appointed in French Basque tradition.  It was 5:20 p.m. when we arrived and we showered, washed clothes, and walked through town and checked out the several shops, restaurants, and other places to stay.  The town is not much more than ¼ mile and there is only one road through the center.  One row of houses line either side of the road. There are mountains on either side of the town.  Cathy and I enjoyed an ice cream before dinner.  Wrote a few postcards and rendezvoused for dinner by 8 p.m.  The meals were mostly fish and duck.  I had melon, ham, grilled sole, cheese with fig jam, and an awesome dessert.  Excellent food and awesome French Baroque ambiance.  The dinner experience was an event in itself and the two hours of dining went by fast.  Christian and Al told their afternoon tale, after we arrived, of biking 5 miles to a small town in Spain.  The town they visited was also picturesque which seems to be true of most of the villages in the area.  Christian says the day was "formidable."  The restaurant is decorated with many interesting fixtures including a deer and other wild game mounted on the walls.  Some very old paintings, a stuffed fox, and an assortment of traditional artifacts surround the dining area.  The service is quite excellent.

We were blessed with another day of excellent weather.  Mostly sunny with an occasional could.  Temperatures during the day are in the low to mid 80's F and no noticeable wind.

Monday 30 August - Day 2:  Jet lag started to take effect and 8 a.m. came very early.  Our hotel was on the main road and the occasional car could be heard zooming by.  The chime of a clock and the town clock could be heard regularly.  We had breakfast at 9 a.m. and were ready to ride at 10 a.m.  A typical breakfast consisted of toast, jelly, juice, and tea or coffee.  After preparing to ride, we would meet for a group prayer and took turns saying the prayer.  We started the ride along the narrow road through town.  Lots of trees lined the road and soon we were in low gear riding up a pass 602 meters high.  It was hot and we rode slow.  Shortly after we left town we entered Spain.  There was a guard house in the center of the road but nobody was there.  We just rode past with no problem.  We would spend most of today biking in Spain.  Christian and Al were in front, as usual.  We reached the top, took a break, ate some cookies, took some photographs, and prepared for an enjoyable downhill ride.  As the downhill became flat, we made our turn towards a small town, Errazu, where we stopped for lunch.   The small town of Errazu is very Spanish though in many ways resemble their French neighbors. The roads are narrow and the buildings in town meet the edge of the road.  The narrow and winding road weaves through town with several sharp turns.  We found a restaurant named Otuachoa, though the outside had no indication that it was a restaurant.   The floor was made of stone, the stairs of wood, and it was all very well worn.  Nothing was flat.  It may have been converted from a very old barn or commercial building, or that is just the way they built homes a very long time ago.  The dining room was upstairs and very traditional Spanish.  The staff all spoke Spanish, no French or English.  We ordered pork chops, veal, soup, salad, and bread all served family style.  I ordered some beef and it was the best I ever ate.  We were on the road by 2:30 p.m. and expected another pass before our evening destination.  It was a long uphill grind and we were heading more east than south since the morning.  With each pedal, the scenery became more beautiful, the sun more bright, and the panorama more great.  The clouds gave way to sunshine while the roads became more narrow.  In some places, the road was more like a driveway.  Often, we thought we must have taken a wrong turn but there were no turns other than dirt driveways.  The road was now a wide bike path, well paved, and with no traffic.  When we reached the top we were at the border between France and Spain at an elevation of 690 meters.  There was a tourist store where we had ice cream and a French nectarine (excellent fruit).  We were enjoying our break as were visited by a horse soon to be encouraged onward by a barking dog.  Then came the most excellent downhill as a reward for all the hard work peddling up the mountain.  The ride was a gift from heaven as the narrow roads followed the contour of the mountainside.  Without braking, a speed of 30 mph would just about make all the turns.  Some sections were not wide enough for two cars to pass and in one area I almost got pulverized by a bus.  I had to get myself and bike off the road to allow it to pass.  The downhill ride ended in a town and a left turn took us to a sidewalk café where we stopped for tea, coffee, and juice.  This was a very civilized break after biking in what seemed to be a very remote part of the world.  Onward to our evening destination we encountered some light traffic, a small hill, intersections, small villages, and finally St. Jean Pied du Port.  At left turn at the town center, traffic jam, and a car that tried to pass me and almost ran me onto the sidewalk.  It was only a few blocks to the Hotel Pyrènees  with a parking garage around back where we could lock our bikes.  Very nice rooms.  We bathed and did laundry.  We had a little time to walk around town.  There was an "Old Town" behind a fortified wall though we did not have enough time to really explore.  After our most excellent two-hour dinner including an assortment of appetizers, food, and dessert, we continued exploring town.  We followed the fortified wall to the top where we enjoyed a spectacular view of the city.  Some of the homes that we passed were built in the 1500's though some were built as late as the 1800's.  People still lived here though I suspect it could be a bit touristy earlier in the summer months.

The weather today was excellent.  Temperatures were in the upper 70's to low 80's.  The humidity was high.  The day started out partly cloudy and became mostly overcast which was welcome during the uphill ride.

Tuesday 31 August - Day 3:  It was foggy this morning and after our typical breakfast (plus yogurt, apricots, plums, croissants and jam) and map discussion we were on our bikes by 10 a.m.  It was sunny when we started.  Cathy and I were a few minutes ahead of the gang.  About 10 km down the road we discovered that we had made a wrong turn.  As we were consulting our map we soon found Christian had made the same error.  Together we started to plan an alternate way to meet up with our desired route and Al appeared.  We all agreed that we missed a hard to find turn and Phil and Nancy joined us.  We all decided to cut across a small hill that had perhaps a 15% grade for a short distance. There was an alternate route that would take us a little higher and steeper and we were not sure where the turn was but we decided that it would be better than an alternate scenic route that would be longer.  We found our turn, left the valley road for a pleasant uphill grade on a very narrow, one lane road.  Our alternate route turned out to be a little higher and steeper than we planned initially but then became more gentle.  It was so steep in places that we had to stand to peddle in low gear because, while seated, the front wheel would come off the ground.  Fortunately, it was steep for a short while, then became just normally steep.  We averaged 3 mph for the next four hours.  Sometimes we slowed to 2.6 mph, walking occasionally.  It was sunny and hot.  The road was narrow, only one lane wide.  Like yesterday, the road followed the contour of the mountainside.  We often approached what we thought was the top only to find a turn and more mountain to ride up. As we gained elevation the view of the surrounding mountains, peaks, ridges, and valleys became spectacular beyond belief.  Although we expected to reach a town by 1 p.m. we had made the pass by 2 p.m.  We regrouped at the top and then started down.  There were sheep and horses grazing in the meadows atop the mountain with shepherds tending their flock.  A tourist parked by the roadside with camera in hand sneaking up on the animals for a rare, candid photograph was a common sight here.  All around were mountain peaks and ridges making a most picturesque backdrop.  We soon found a restaurant, the Auberge Ahusquy, on a little knoll with excellent views.  Although closed for lunch they took pity on our tired soles and offered to make omelets and ham.  Phil commented that my rear tire just blew out while resting by a building.  Bummer, though my priority right now was to eat.  A German couple was admiring Al's bike Friday so I asked if they could give me a lift to town to get a new tire.  Fortunately, they said yes and that their car happened to have a bike rack.  I went to tell the gang and to power eat my eggs and ham.  We loaded my bike on their car and we headed down the hill.  It was bitter sweet to bike up the mountain and get a ride down as the road was most excellent.  We passed flocks of sheep, goats, and horses grazing on the mountain alongside the road.  It was very picturesque.  The German couple were near the end of their four-week vacation, starting their road trip from Germany earlier in the month.  He was a physicist at the University and worked in high-energy physics.  He was interested in radiation dosimetry which was a coincidence as I had worked in a hospital during graduate school doing research in the same field.  We stopped by a horse grazing with a flock of sheep to take a photograph and then continued down the beautiful mountain.  In town, we were unfortunate not to find a bike shop but I was fortunate because they generously offered to drive me to my destination, Oloron, where we surely would find a bike shop.  I enjoyed the 27 km ride and felt blessed that there was a bike shop in town with a tire that fit my bike.  I said goodbye to my new German friends, hello to the bike mechanic, and attempted to understand some fast talking French.  I was happy to be back on my bike in search of our Hotel Alysson (in Oloron Saint Marie) but confused by the different directions to the hotel.  I soon found the hotel, dropped my panniers off, and headed back towards the west to find my friends.  Three miles out of town, I found Christian, then a little further I met Al and Cathy, then Phil and Nancy.  We rode the last five miles to the hotel together.  They had ridden 38 miles that day.  At the hotel I jumped in the pool to find the water was colder than expected.  After a hot bath, we sat down to dinner at 8:15 p.m., after a very long and challenging day.  We were all tired and told our stories after separating at the top of the mountain.  I felt cheated that I missed the downhill ride.  The food, as always, was excellent.  Each night, a different person buys a bottle of wine during dinner.  The wine was most excellent and the desserts are especially good.  Sometimes, they bring a dessert appetizer consisting of an assortment of tasty goodies.  The Pyrènees  mountains are clearly seen right outside our bedroom window.

These times exclude the downhill ride from the top of the mountain and the last 27 km.

Wednesday 1 September - Day 4:  Another beautiful day as we awoke in Oloron Saint Marie.  The Hotel Alysson was a bit noisy from the traffic on a nearby highway.  We were on the road by 10:15 a.m.  Today we would ride about 45 miles but there would be no high passes.  We were soon on a small country road winding our way through the countryside.  It was very pleasant riding.  One road took us through a wilderness park that was very beautiful with an excellent downhill ride through a heavily wooded forest.  We missed one of our turns but found an alternate way on the map that was very beautiful, with a few short but steep hills.  The road was single lane and blissfully beautiful.  It was like riding in Heaven.  At times we felt lost but there were not other roads or turns, just driveways and farms.  We had lunch in a small town called Louvie-Juzon.  The morning overcast gave way to afternoon sunshine as we ate lunch in a small Spanish outdoor café.  The food was okay but the dessert at a nearby patisserie was outstanding.  Service was slow and lunch took two hours.  After lunch, we started up a steep hill followed by some rolling hills and then flat road. We emerged from the country road onto the main highway that went into Lourdes.  So, with Christian and Al in front and Phil and Nancy behind, Cathy and I decided to take the main road to Lourdes.  Perhaps it would be a little faster as it was getting a little late.  Traffic was moderate and the lanes were wide.  We took a break to enjoy a nectarine and chocolate cookies.  We were quick getting to Lourdes but took a wrong turn and met Christian and Al coming down a hill that we were biking up.  Together, we found our way to the hotel in town.  The Grand Hotel de la Grotte is the biggest in town.  We arrived at 7:30 and Phil and Nancy came about 8:15.  Dinner was served until 9 p.m. so we hurried getting ready.  Another excellent dinner and we exchanged our stories of the day.  After dinner, we took a short walk, found a cash machine, and went to bed by 11 p.m.  It was a very long day.

Thursday 2 September - Day 5:  Today was a no biking day and a time to explore a famous city.  There are two main attractions in the city of Lourdes.  First, we went to the Grotte where St. Bernadette saw the Virgin Mary and a total of 18 apparitions.  Second, we went to the Castle and Pyrenean museum that was built during the 18th century.

Lourdes is a little town with 17,000 residents.  It is situated at the foot of the Pyrènees  and is dominated by a castle.  It has a picturesque marketplace, little shops that line the streets, and a simple parochial life.  Five million visitors from 150 countries come each year.  There are 360 hotels, 20 camping sites, and many souvenir shops along the tow streets that lead down to the shrine.  A million pilgrims come with diocesan or national pilgrimages.  Some young, some sick, some old, people from all walks of life who seek the deepest truth in the heart of Lourdes.

We first went to the Grotte.  We missed early Mass but discovered an Irish Mass that was quite interesting.  The Grotte near St. Bernadette's Church, a simple hole in the rock, is where Mary appeared.  On February 11, 1858 there was a sound of wind and a light.  In an alcove in the rock, Bernadette saw a young little girl dressed in white, with a blue cincture, a yellow rose on each foot and carrying a Rosary on her arm.  On March 25th Mary said to Bernadette in the local dialect of Lourdes "Que soy era Immaculada concepciou" meaning "I am the Immaculate Conception."  On her statue now reads the above.

Above the Grotte is Sanctuary Notre-Dam de Lourdes - One day, Our Lady appeared to a 14 year old girl called Bernadette Soubirous to remind us of the secret of happiness:  The Gospel.  The poverty of an unencumbered heart; The prayer which opens us to God; The conversion which changes our life; The Church which gathers us together as brothers and sisters.

The Spring at the back of the Grotte was discovered by Bernadette on February 25th, 1858.  The water is piped to the taps and the baths.  This spring water is symbolic of our trust in God and represents the purification and healing of our souls, sick with sin.  Cathy and I filled our small bottles with this Holy water from the taps.

The Baths, 17 baths cut into the rock, are considered symbolic, that we bathe our hearts in the spring of his love.  A confession well made is preferable to a bath.

The Candles can be purchased and are lighted when you make a prayer.  All the candles will be relit in the winter months to prolong your prayer in your absence.  Bernadette came to meet Our Lady with a lighted candle in her hand.

The Crypt is under the Upper Basilica and we entered.  It was blessed on the day of Pentecost 1866.  Bernadette could leave Lourdes and go to Nevers, she had finished her task.  The Church is intended for personal silent Adoration from All Saints to Easter.

Upper Basilica was opened in 1871 and was built on the rock of Massabielle. The Sanctuary is directly over the place of the apparitions.  The tower is 70 meters high.  Bells ring every quarter hour.  On the hour, they ring Ave Maria.  The history of Our Lady of Lourdes is retold in stained glass.

The Rosary Basilica was built under the two previous places of worship in the early 1900's.  There are 15 small chapels from left to right decorated  with mosaics that follow the journey and story of the Rosary.

Other sites that we did not visit include:

• The Adoration Chapel - Exclusively for personal, silent prayer.
• The Ex-Voto: Plaques (marble) of thanks.
• The Church of St. Bernadette
• The Basilica of St. Pius X
• The Chapel of Reconciliation
• The Way of the Cross.

In the afternoon we enjoyed a pizza lunch and then went to the Castle and Pyrenean museum.  The Castle was built during the 11th century.  It has three successive lines of defense - lower and higher surrounding walls and the keep.  It was in use during the Feudal epoch (11th to 15th century).  At one time they used it as a prison.  Since 1921, it houses the Pyrenean museum.  The Castle includes 18 outside rooms, a kitchen, bedroom, cemetery, and Samadet crockery.

After a lousy dinner at the Restaurant Acapulco, we bought candles for the Torch Light Procession.  On our way, we met Sister Anastasia from Mississippi.  She suggested that we join the singers in the front of the Basilica where we would have the best view.  Indeed, we could see all from this most excellent vantage point; however, since some of us couldn't sing and others did not know the language we joined the crowds of common people.  But first, we filled our small jugs with Holy water.  The crowded area was tightly packed with people in carts, crippled, in front of the procession.  Then, as it got dark, we lit our candles.  We all shared the flame and lit each other's candles repeatedly as a gentle breeze would sometimes blown a few out.  The procession was slow and Rosary was recited in many different languages.  It took about an hour and there were perhaps 20,000 people.  Quite impressive to have so many people joining together to share their faith and prayer.  Their common bond is their love of God and a desire for happiness and freedom from the burden of sin.  

The Torch Light Procession is conducted every evening at 8:45 in the darkness of night.  There is a walk with Mary enlightened by our Faith and Hope in the Risen Lord who finally conquered the darkness of death on the morning of Easter.  The procession is interspersed by the singing of the Ave Maria.  The hymn was composed in 1873 to an old air from the Pyrènees .

No biking today!

Friday 3 September - Day 6:  The Grande Hotel de la Grotte was very nice.  They had a breakfast buffet that included scrambled eggs and bacon.  We were on the road by 9:15 with comfortable temperatures and overcast skies.  By 10 a.m. we were out of town at the beginning of a nice country road when Christian got a flat tire.  After repairs, we found what we thought was our turn but it was one lane wide and looked much like a driveway.  A girl with dog was walking towards us.  When we went to ask her directions she and her dog disappeared.  It looked like rain and started to drizzle. We biked up the narrow road as it continued to rain lightly, then stopped.  We rode up a gentle hill in occasional sprinkles until we reached the top of the hill.  Very beautiful road.  We enjoyed a very long downhill ride through a valley.  We found a small deli and patisserie in a small town where we enjoyed a sandwich, soda, and excellent pastry.  We continued onward without many hills and came upon another small town called Ste Marie-de-Campon (on the Tour de France route) where Christian and Al enjoyed a break on a corner café.  The next 15 km was an uphill grind and slow going.  There was a sign every km reminding us of our progress with the altitude, distance left ot the pass, and the grade for the next km.  We took pictures at the top and then rode downhill.  We were in and out of the clouds and it was very exciting yet a little scary at times.  The road was narrow and windy and I stopped several times to take pictures.  My maximum speed was 40 mph though the others were much more sane in the descent.  At the bottom of the hill was a sign for the Tour de France and we turned right on D929 towards Arreau, a very cool little town.  We found our hotel, L'hotel D'Anglitarre.  We prepared for our dinner at 7:30 and struggled with the French menu, though the entrees seemed much the same as elsewhere.  Dinner was quite good though service was slow and we finished at 10:30 and went to bed.  Our room was close to the road and every car that went by seemed very loud.  Although there were few cars, we got very little sleep that night.  Perhaps we were a little homesick.  We were all thankful that it did not rain much that day.

Saturday 4 September - Day 7: We were on the road by 9:30 after a half hour walk through town.  Arreau is a very quaint and beautiful town separated by the main highway by a large stream with another stream that goes through town.  There was a small bike shop in town that was well stocked with components and accessories.  A water bottle served as a good souvenir.  Near the town center we found a butcher shop, a patisserie, and a boulangerie.  The town center was surrounded by shops, a restaurant, and numerous homes.  The Pyrènees  foothills could be seen in all directions.  This was on the route of the Tour de France.  We left town at 10 a.m. on a road that followed the river valley downstream.  We made excellent time as the route was slightly downhill for a very long way.  We came to a small village called Rebouc where we turned off the main road towards Léchan on D26, a small road that went through many tiny towns, farms, and undeveloped countryside.  At lunch we looked for a boulangerie and asked an 80 year old man for directions.  He was on a very old bike and showed us the way back along our route to Nestier, past a restaurant that we checked out earlier, and up a steep hill to a road that led to a monastery converted to a restaurant.  He stopped a few times to wait for us and once turned to say in French, "Those bikes look pretty heavy."  We were loaded with our panniers and we interpreted it to mean that we were pretty slow.  The monastery was set up on a hill with an excellent view of rolling hills and a long, wide valley.  The meal was simple and the service was slow.  As we biked through St. Bertrand de Comminges we saw a big basilica on the hill.  The original plan was to have lunch there instead of the monastery.  We continued  our journey to discover another smaller basilica in St. Just that was built in the 11th century.  It was built of stone, as they all were, and very simple without that lavish appointments of newer houses or worship.  Back on D26 towards Barbazan and onward to Sauveterre de C. to our hotel called 7 Molles.  We arrived in the mid afternoon, lay by the pool, bathed, walked through a small village with no stores, played tennis, and relaxed before dinner.  The days ride was all downhill until the last few miles of the day.  A pleasant and leisurely ride.  

Sunday 5 September - Day 8:  We were on the road by 9:30 and split into two groups - Christian, Al, and Phil would ride over 4 passes while Cathy, Nancy, and I would take the less hilly route.  The first half of our route was slightly downhill and the second half was slightly uphill.  We biked at a comfortable pace.  The Pyrènees  were off to our right and rolling hills to our left.  We were biking along a giant valley as we started on D26 going east.  At Encausse we asked directions to be sure we were going the right way.  A couple miles down the road, the man who gave us directions drove by, stopped, and suggested that we go to Rieucazé because it was so beautiful.  The road, when we got there, started up a steep hill so we skipped it.  We continued on D5 for a short bit and then D21.  These were all very narrow roads.  We passed many hunters as the season had just opened.  At Mane, we had to ride less than a mile on D117, a busy road.  We turned on D83 towards Touille and continued on D134 to follow the Salat River almost all the way to St. Girons where we would find our hotel, the Mirouze (a two star hotel).  We arrived at 3:30 p.m.   The road along the Salat River (D134) was the size of a wide bike path and very pretty.  We saw no cars and passed several small villages along the way.  At the hotel, we locked our bikes in a garage, bathed, explored town, had a milk shake, and returned to the hotel.  It was a very picturesque town.  Two hours after we arrived, Christian, Al, and Phil arrived at 5:30.  They said the first three passes were easy and the fourth was tough with a 15% grade for ¾ mile followed by a long downhill.  It was very picturesque.

Monday 6 September - Day 9:  We were on the road by 9:15 expecting our longest ride today.  Soon after we began our ride the rain began.  It rained for about an hour.  We rode up a hill that increased in difficulty to about a 5% grade, rising 50 meters per km.  It took a while to reach the pass.  At 2:00 we were on top, took a break, started down, and found a good lunch stop.  We were expecting the last part of our ride to be 17 miles of busy road.  We arrived at Tarascon-s-Ariege at 4:15 p.m.  Our priority was to stop at a patisserie, then checked out the train station but they did not take bicycles. Nancy got a flat tire at the train station and rain was coming.  Heavy rain from it appeared from the dark towering clouds climbing over the tall mountains.  Cathy and Nancy jumped a taxi with their bikes and made good time to the hotel.  They took our panniers so riding for us would be easy and fun.  But, alas, came the heavy rain and we waited for it to stop.  We waited until 5:45 at which time we made a break for the busy road and our final destination.  We arrived in Ax-les-Thermes and at our hotel L'Auzeraie at 7:30. Cathy and Nancy were spotted us as we entered town and gave us directions to our hotel before returning to their drinks at an outdoor café.  Within an hour our bikes were securely locked in a storage room and we were sitting down to dinner.  It was a long day and we were tired by the end of dinner and went to bed.

Tuesday 7 September - Day 10:  Today would be one of the toughest rides of our trip as we would ascend the highest pass of our route, Col de Pailhères with an altitude of 2,001 meters (though we expected only 34 miles).  We were on the road by 9:40, after a visit to a boulangerie for a loaf of bread for lunch.  Our departure altitude at Ax-les Thermes is 752 meters.  As soon as we left town, the road started up with an average grade of 6.5% and some areas 9.0%.  It rained in the morning but it was light.  It rained a few more times for 20 or 30 minutes with just enough time between for us to dry off.  We were thankful that it was not one of those long, drenching rains.  We never got cold and our rain gear came in handy.  The climb was slow and we stopped once in a doorway of a ski resort to enjoy some bread in the dry comfort of a small alcove.  The road continued to be steep and the switchbacks took us high above the valley with some glimpses of the beautiful Pyrènees  mountains around us.  As we approached the top of the mountain we were enveloped by a cloud and then more rain.  It was cloudy on top and we could not see very much.  We were above some of the clouds and could get a glimpse at the windy, twisty road, very narrow and appearing like a race track.  At 2:15 we began our ride down.  The road was steep and twisty with the tightest hairpin turns I've ever seen.  The downhill ride had a total of 33 hairpin turns - the most in all of Western Europe including the Alps!  We used our brakes extensively.  In fact, we used our brakes so much that our hands were tired and sore from squeezing so hard for so long.  We slowed through a very small, quaint town of Milanès and spotted Christian and Al at a small café.  They were just leaving but stayed while Cathy and I enjoyed tea and hot chocolate.  As we were leaving, Phil and Nancy arrived.  We continued downward passing through a beautiful village of Quérigut and then up another hill that was long but not too steep.  Then came a long downhill ride.  We soon came upon Al repairing a flat tire.  We finished our ride to Les Angles.  Just before our last turn, we stopped in Formiguères at a small corner store for a soda and a bag of potato chips.  The remainder was an easy ride to Les Angles, a relatively large town compared to the villages we visited.  Our hotel, the Hotel Yaka, was on the other side of town.  It was a ski resort and very touristy with lots of shops, hotels, and restaurants.  We arrived at 7 p.m.  Our rooms were small but comfortable.  We ate dinner at 8:45.  It was a simple dinner of salad, appetizers, chicken, and cream burlier.  We were all very tired that night.

Wednesday 8 September - Day 11:  We were on the road by 10:30 and expecting a long downhill ride.  After a one-hour uphill that was not too steep we enjoyed a most excellent downhill excursion.  It was the longest downhill ride ever.  It was not too steep and only a little windy.  This route was discovered by Al on the map and verified by Christian who talked with some of the locals.  It was beautiful, no traffic, and no more difficult than our planned route.  At D118, south of Les Anglés we turned east on D4C towards les Cortals, a few house village.  Soon, at the top, the narrow road went down at a comfortable grade.  We were surrounded by tall mountain peaks as high as 7,000 feet.  As we descended, the mountains appeared even taller, towering high in each direction.  We came to a fork and took the wrong turn on D4F towards Caudies de-Confluent but turned around after a short 2 km ride.  We continued on D4C.  The picturesque town of Ayguatebia is set on the side of a mountain with towering peaks on all sides and a river valley in front.  We stopped frequently on the way down to enjoy the moment, smell the flowers, and gaze upon the majestic vistas.  There were a lot of butterflies in some places.  We continued downward along a long switchback separated by a stream.  Christian and Al were on the other side.  I yelled and waved, not sure if they saw me.  We continued own and, at the turn, went up for ½ km.  We met Christian and Al at an intersection of D4 and D4D.  They had passed us when we went the wrong way a while back.  In the morning, they had ridden back to town to the store to get food, hence were behind us.  We continued down together.  It was early afternoon and we were making good time.  Not tired at all.  About half way down, we passed two sports cars racing up the road.  The road was very narrow and snaked along the mountainside with sharp, blind turns.  We were glad they were gone.  Very soon, we heard the roar of three more cars.  It was a road rally with a variety of very cool roadsters and sports cars.  By the time we reached the bottom, perhaps 40 more sports cars passed.  We later learned that it sponsored by the British Car Club.  There were between 70 and 100 cars in the rally.  At the bottom of the hill we turned east on N116 in the town of Olette.  We found a small café and enjoyed a pâté sandwich.  Lots of traffic on N117 as it was a national road.  Many more sports cars went by.  We left the café by 3 p.m. and rode about 5 km before turning off on D27.  Although less traffic and more beautiful, it was definitely more hilly and a little longer.  We enjoyed the country road and arrived in Vernet-les-Bains in the late afternoon.  Christian got directions to our hotel Le Mas Fleuri.  We found Phil and Nancy by the pool, smiling and in good spirits.  They had arrived a couple hours earlier as they had not turned off the national road for the less crowded country road.  They visited Villefranche-de-Confluent and described it as a fortified city with beautiful views of the surrounding mountains.  The town was only 8 km from our hotel.  The ride to the hotel was uphill but a gentle grade.  We were soon ready for dinner and walked through town (uphill) and checked out three recommended restaurants before making our selection.  Dinner was great and we enjoyed a brief TV broadcast by the BBC in English.  There was an earthquake in Athens two days ago and 49 people died so far.  There was political upheaval in Jakarta, Indonesia.  A high pressure dominates the region and we can expect good weather.

Thursday 9 September - Day 12:  A day off in Vernet-les-Bains.  A leisurely breakfast at 9 a.m. and we planned to go to the fortified city of Carcassonne by rental car.  It took us all morning to rent a car because we did not have one reserved.  By 12:30 we were on the road the short route; however, it was a windy, twisty country road much like the ones we biked on.  Although perfect for biking, driving was very slow and it seemed like it took forever to get the short distance.  We arrived at Carcassonne by 4:30 in the afternoon including a 30 minute break for lunch.  We visited the castle and fortress and were all very impressed.  The whole city is behind fortified walls.  We stayed for only two hours and headed back at 6:30 p.m. via the superhighway through Perpignan.  Our route was longer and took us through the cities of Prades and Villefranche.  We had dinner at a nearby pizzeria and returned to our hotel by 10:30.  The castle was well worth the drive but it was a lot of driving.

The walled town of Carcassonne is best known as a mediaeval fortified town.  As early as the 6th century BC are signs of occupation by a Gaulish settlement.  In the 3rd century the town suffered occasional invasions and entrenched itself behind the protection of a fortified city wall.  On the frontier near the Spanish border it was occupied by a variety of kingdoms for the next several centuries.  In the 11th century the Trencavel dynasty was born and played a major role in a political context dominated by the two rival houses of Toulouse and Barcelona.  The 13th century was tumultuous with crusades and territorial conquests.  Between 1240 and 1659, Carcassonne was the principal defensive structure on the frontier between France and Aragon.  In 1997, the town was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list.  In September, 1999 we visited the town of Carcossonne.

The castle is entered through a semi-circular forward defensive building.  A rectangular wall with crenellations and round towers provide the first line of defense.  A second entrance with two towers flanking a central defensive building with a very elaborate closing device for the heavy wooden doors.  In the 12th century there is evidence that there was a ground floor and an upper floor with narrow window openings.  A second floor was added in the mid 13th century and was lit by gothic bays.  A watchtower was later constructed on the Roman foundation stones.  When the castle buildings were enlarged in the mid 13th century, a large ceremonial hall was constructed over the entire courtyard area and later demolished in the 15th century to give more light to the south wing of the castle.

There is a walkway with a magnificent view and offered strategic advantage over attacking soldiers.  two high parallel walls form a covered passage and additional security.  The Justice Tower probably housed the archives and registers of the Inquisition.  Several other towers provided improved visibility and eliminated blind spots for the protection of the wall.  A covered walk offers a magnificent views over the wine-growing plains of the Aude, the Corbières hills and the Pyrènees  beyond.  The Saint-Nazaire and Saint-Celese Cathedral combines a Romanesque nave and Gothic transept and chancel lit by a series of very beautiful stained glass windows made as early as the late 13th and early 14th centuries.

Within the castle is a lapidary museum with awesome and incredible artifacts depicting the history of the era.  The history of Carcassonne is extensive and a visit is highly recommended when you are in southern France.

No biking today!

Friday 10 September - Day 13:  We were on the road early and psyched for a 50 mile ride over some flat and some hilly terrain.  Our route out of Vernet was up a  little and down a lot.  We rode along D27 and came to the Abbe St. Michel-de-Cuxa.  It was 1,000 years old.  Some monks still lived there.  Christian, Al, and Phil stopped to go in.  Cathy, Nancy, and I continued riding with a brief stop at a grocery and a patisserie.  We later learned that Phil got a blowout and was significantly delayed.  We continued east on a national road N116.  It was mostly downhill and we made good time to Bouleternère thought the traffic was moderate.  We turned right on D618 towards Boule-d'Amont.  It was hilly, along the side of small mountains, but the grade was gentle.  At Boule-d'Amont we found a stone shelter and bench, protected from the sun, we ate our lunch.  It was shortly after 1 p.m. when we continued up to a pass, Col Fourtou, that was only 646 meters.  From there it was mostly downhill to Ceret with only a few up hills that were easy.  We found our hotel La Terrase au Soleil.  The last 4 km was the steepest ride all day.  We lay by the pool and enjoyed an excellent dinner.  It's a 4 star hotel with very large suites, air conditioning, and a beautiful view.  We had perfect weather - sunny and pleasantly warm.

Saturday 11 September - Day 14:  We enjoyed a civilized breakfast at a comfortable hour and prepared for our last ride of only 20 miles.  There was a feeling of melancholy as we knew our biking paradise would soon be replaced by our work routine and our great biking buddies would return to their respective lifestyles.  We called ahead to a bike shop for boxes and they said that they should help arrange for a ride to the airport.  We were on the road by 11:15 and started down the road to Certes where we encountered the street market in full blossom.  It was quite extensive and a great variety of street vendors offered their merchandise are very reasonable prices.  This was far better than the malls that we know back home.  The narrow brick streets were sprawling with shoppers.  We headed eastward expecting an easy 20 mile ride to the bike shop on the Mediterranean. 

Victory! Christian Green John Beck and Cathy Lavelle Phil and Nancy Blackwood Al Davis

We were making good time on the national road and we were keeping a great pace biking together.  Alas, we took a wrong turn and road up the steepest hill of the whole trip.  Convinced that this was the right way, we all worked hard to make the top.  It was a small mountain with a great view but the road looped back ot the beginning and we wasted a good hour.  Back on the road, we found our correct turn, D61, then D11 and D2.  At 1:30 we stopped for bread and water and arrived in our destination town at about 3 pm.  We were at the bike shop in about 10 minutes, and an awesome bike shop we found.  It was full of cool accessories.  There were bike boxes waiting for us.  Our biking trip was officially at an end and we took a taxi to the Grand Hôtel du Lido in Argelès-Sur-Mer.  It is on the beach and is quite nice.  We put on our bathing suits and stood in the Mediterranean.  Then relaxed by the pool.  The water in both the sea and the pool was slightly cool.  We walked through town and enjoyed a most excellent dinner.

A note from my logbook...

There is a sense of melancholy as the trip nears an end.  The days have been pleasant.  Each day we hope for good weather and pray for safety.  We wonder what the day will have for us.  The time we spend biking is full of splendor and magnificent vistas.  When we rest from biking each moment is appreciated and there is no stress nor worry.  Our friendships have strengthened and life seems more joyous.  As the trip ends thoughts of the long journey home, anxiety, and preoccupation with thoughts of things missed while away seem to fill my head.  The sense of being here now is replaced with other stuff that seems to be of little importance.  I really like peddling and the simple way of life we lead. The miles go slowly but I feel so much a part of the country.  I biked 456 miles, from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, over the Pyrènees  foothills.  I feel a great sense of accomplishment.

Sunday 12 September - Day 15:  A lazy day today.  Breakfast at 9 am and an hour of writing postcards... "The Pyrènees  foothills of Southern France are beautiful.  We have biked from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean mostly on country roads with no traffic.  The villages are romantically beautiful and the people are very friendly.  The views from the mountain passes are spectacular..."  We shopped, ate, and played the role of a tourist.  A relaxing day.

Monday 13 September - Day 16:  Our journey home was uneventful, with the exception of having to change not just planes but airports in Paris.  We could not check our bikes all the way to Newark so we had to take our bikes by bus along with the rest of our luggage.  We only had two hours but we met the challenge with only minutes to spare.  So, we spent the last of our French francs on wine at the duty free shop.  it was good to get home after the long trip.

Memory...

It was a great trip and I want to do it again.  Thanks go to Christian Green who did a most excellent job arranging for accommodations and planning the trip.  Special thanks to everyone for making the trip the best vacation of my life.